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Showing posts with label Gold Basics. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Gold Basics. Show all posts
Sunday, November 20, 2011

Gold Allergy

An allergy is a hypersensitivity to a substance that causes the body to react to any contact with that substance. 
Do I have an allergy to gold?
Probably not, that is not gold itself. What people occasionally have is an allergy to the nickel content in gold alloys, usually in the alloy rich 9ct golds. 9ct alloys go dull or even black from the exposure to chemicals in the atmosphere and also may discolour from contact with perspiration, bleach, household chemicals and some fabrics.


Allergy Test KitDetergents and other chemicals lodge between rings and the skin causing problems, particularly hairspray, beauty and cleaning products. Antiperspirants exacerbate metal allergy problems. It has been suggested that the sweat of a healthy person after exercise contains 18 times the nickel content of blood. The antiperspirant reduces the bodies natural way of eliminating heavy metals and can lead to a build up in intensity, which causes a higher concentration in the sweat than is normal.

The most common type of allergy we encounter is a phantom allergy, caused by a noticeable desire to upgrade to 18ct or platinum!. As nickel and zinc are not used in 18ct alloy, just silver and copper, it is less likely to produce any kind of allergy related problems. What a good excuse! 

Tarnishing of Gold
Possible causes include:
  • Perspiration (everyone's body chemistry is different, hence this is why some are more susceptible than others); for women, the time of the month can influence their body chemistry. 
  • Perfume, hair or deodorant sprays, 
  • Tarnishing during storage (storage boxes may contain organic sulphur compounds),
  • Leaching of acid/ cleaning solutions from surface microporosity from cast jewellery; this causes corrosion locally (such porosity may even trap perspiration during wear, causing local corrosion) 
  • Preparation of vegetables such as onions and spices (many foodstuffs contain sulphur compounds and others are also acidic).
Another possible mechanism may be surface micro-porosity on the surface of investment (lost wax) cast items. This porosity may trap acids and other cleaning solutions, sprays, or perspiration and cause a local corrosion which 'creeps' over the surface of the item. 

The tarnish films formed are generally harmless although unsightly and may lead to a black smudging of the skin. Such films can be easily polished off by a jeweller to restore the bright gold colour. 

Possible solutions to the problem include: 

  • Store jewellery in a pouch or bag in a dry atmosphere (unpolluted, e.g. by exhaust fumes, solvent vapours, where possible).
  • If stored in a box or pouch or plastic bag, ensure it is free of sulphur-containing compounds (from solvents, fabric treatments, adhesives, etc.).
  • Polish jewellery regularly with a soft cloth to remove any early tarnish films, perspiration and other contaminants (sprays, etc). Clean after wear and do not put on perfume, deodorants, sprays, etc whilst wearing the jewellery

Alternative white gold alloys

In the European Union especially, there is a demand for cheaper alternatives to white golds than the palladium whites which are 'nickel-free'. Many new alloys are coming to market, most of which rely on manganese additions as the main whitener. Some are palladium-free and others are low palladium alloys. Chromium and iron are also be used as whiteners. They tend to be hard and more difficult to process. Many of these alloys are not a good white colour, requiring rhodium plating, and many suffer cracking problems and tarnishing.
We recently tried to anneal a batch of white gold from Italy. It was so unmalliable we had to contact the manufacturer, and whilst the solution was simple, a high street working jeweller would find the new metals difficult, if not impossible to process.

Platinum, chromium, cobalt, zinc, tin and silver are all used as whiteners. Silver has excellent working properties but is poor as a whitener. Copper is also added to improve the ductility of most white alloys.

Rhodium Plating
It is important to remember that even the best white gold alloy is actually grey, as is platinum. The white finish you are accustomed to is a rhodium plating, and whatever you are told, white golds are only available in caratages up to 21 carat. It is not possible to have a 22 ct white gold!


Resistance to Tarnish 

18 carat and 22 carat gold alloys are almost completely resistant to chemical attack and 9ct alloys are much less resistant. Nine carat alloys can dull or even blacken from exposure to chemicals in the atmosphere, and might discolour in contact with household chemicals. 9ct chain is usually finished with a deeper yellow 18ct or 22ct coating by manufacturers, which is why the bright finish on a new 9ct chain gradually tones down to match other jewellery that you wear on a daily basis.
The original bright finish can usually be restored quite inexpensively by a working jeweller for little cost should your chain become chemically or mechanically damaged over the years.

Hardness 
As well as affecting physical properties, alloying gold generally increases the strength and hardness, with some reduction in malleability / ductility. The silver atom is slightly larger than that of gold, so alloying gold with silver gives a moderate improvement in strength and hardness. The copper atom is significantly smaller than that of gold and so it has a greater effect on strengthening gold than silver, as it distorts the gold crystal lattice more. Thus reducing caratage from 24 carats through 22 ct down to 18 carat gold results in stronger and harder alloys, but alloying beyond 18 ct down to 9 carat does not have much further effect.

Palladium white golds

Palladium is the next choice for use in white gold alloys and, apart from its high price and high melting point (1552 degrees celsius), is an ideal alloy. 
Small Commercial Rhodium Plating Tank
Additions of about 10 -12% palladium to gold impart a good white colour. But palladium is an expensive metal and it is also a heavy metal. Thus jewellery in such palladium white golds will be more expensive than identical pieces in nickel whites for 2 reasons: firstly, the cost of the palladium and secondly, the impact of density - palladium white golds are denser and so such jewellery will be heavier. It is also more difficult to process as the melting temperatures are substantially higher.
Many commercial palladium white golds only contain about 6-8% palladium plus silver, zinc and copper. Some may even contain some nickel [so a palladium white gold is not necessarily nickel-free]. These may also have less than a good white colour and so may also be rhodium plated.
Palladium white golds tend to be softer and more ductile compared to nickel whites and so generally will not wear as well. However, despite its higher base cost and workshop recovery costs, making a more expensive product, the advantages of a non nickel alloy now out weigh these factors. 

White Gold

All our white gold jewellery is compliant with Nickel free directives, with less than 0.05% nickel content, with release rates less than 0.5 micrograms per square centimetre per week, as determed in EN1811:1998 and EN1810:1998. We use an expensive silver-rich alloy to produce the white colour which is best described as a warm white. This whiteness is then enhanced with a rhodium plating and whilst this will fade in time, it can easily be reapplied to restore the original finish by a working jeweller.

Gold is yellow, copper is reddish, and all other metals are a silvery grey in colour. 
Refining an Ingot of GoldThere are however gold alloys, that is mixes of differing metals, that appear grey/white.
White gold (alloy) became popular around 1920 as a substitute for platinum, as platinum was quite expensive. Simply mixing a white and yellow metal together will not produce a colour in the same way that mixing paint does. The most common metal used to 'bleach' gold is nickel which is both inexpensive and provides a good platinum look-alike in 18ct alloys.
It has however been linked to dermatitis through allergic reactions with the skin. It has also been suggested that it may be slightly carcinogenic. A recent E.U directive has indicated that soon all jewellry will have to be nickel safe with only a few ppm being allowable.


A typical white gold alloy might be

Carat and ColourPure 24ctSilverCopperZincNickelPalladium
18ct White gold75%NIL5.5%5%14.5%NIL
Nickel Free      
18ct White gold75%4%NILNILNIL17%

Gold Alloys

For most uses of gold the pure metal is too soft on its 18ct Yellow Alloy Casting Grainown and is therefore hardened by the Heating Crucibles for small Castaddition of alloying elements, copper, silver, nickel, palladium and zinc. Gold is of course yellow and the various colours seen such as red, white and green are simply alloys of gold. The final colour is dependent on the ratios and type of alloys added.


Typical mixes: 

Carat and ColourPure 24ctSilverCopperZincNickel
9ct Yellow gold37.5%12.1%44.4%6%NIL
9ct white gold37.5%NIL34.0%10.8%17.7%
14 ct Green gold58.33%32.5%8.97%0.2%NIL
      
      

CaratSilverCopperColour Produced
9 ct62%NILWhite
9 ct55.07.5Pale yellow
9 ct42.520.0Yellow
9 ct31.2531.25Rich yellow
9 ct20.042.5Pink
9 ct7.555.0Red

How To Gain idea of the Price of The Gold?

Weights of products we send you may vary from those shown on this website due to manufacturing tolerances. Prices charged on your invoice will be based on the actual weight of the products delivered to you. In the gold section the final price you pay will be based upon the gold price at the point at which you order, and the exact weight of the items you have selected. The weights quoted are estimated weights.
For example: if you select a curb bracelet at £7.05 per gram at a weight of 6.5 gms the cost will be:

7.05 x 6.5 = £45.83 which we calculate for you. 
When your bracelet arrives it may weight 6.3 gms so you will be charged:
7.05 x 6.3 = £44.42 
or it may weigh 6.7 gms and you would be charged: 
7.05 x 6.7 = £47.24 
but the gram price of 7.05 will be the same - same good value, whatever the weight.
This is the way that almost the entire wholesale jewellery trade operate, and the only way to operate effectively if you work on small margins. When a shop purchases gold from a wholesale jewellers, the goods are weighed and a price per gram paid, the same way that we charge you. UK gold prices are fixed twice a day and we often change prices to reflect this, so an item in which you were interested in the morning may be a different price in the afternoon.
Prices quoted are what you pay, there is NO additional Vat to calculate.
Price Per Gram (ppg)
This is a calculation that allows jewellery dealers to compare how much we are paying for an item. If we wished to purchase a curb chain for instance that costs £100 and weighs 25 grams the cost per gram is:

100 divided by 25 = 4 pounds per gram. 

We are paying £4 for every gram of gold. If another chain costs £200 and weighs 40 gms, the cost per gram is 

200 divided by 40 = 5 pounds per gram. 

We are paying £5 for every gram of gold. 
The second chain is more expensive on a per gram price, and to be an equal bargain should cost £160 ( 40gms x 4 pounds per gram). We calculate this for you so you can compare our prices. If a shop will not tell you how much a chain weighs, or is unable to calculate this for you, there is usually a reason!. To calculate the price per gram then:
1: Find 2 similar products 
2: Take the cost price 
3: Divide this by the weight

The one with the lowest number is the better deal for identical products. ie 4 ppg is better value than 5 ppg.  

Gold Weight

Troy Ounce 

One Troy ounce of gold weighs 31.1035 grams. 
One ounce of gold is accepted to mean 31.1 grams of pure 24 carat gold although in reality it is likely to be 0.9999% pure, often called four nines. 
Imperial ounces, equivalent to 28 grams, are not used. 

Gold Content

A carat is both a unit of weight and also an indication of fineness, that is, a value for the percentage of pure gold content. 24 carat gold represents 100% gold with no alloy content. 
Example:
A one ounce, 1 (Troy) ounce, 9ct gold bracelet weighs 31.1gms.
Actual gold content is (9/24)*31.1=11.66gms of pure (24ct) gold. This also means that (31.10-11.66) 19.44 gms in every troy ounce are other alloys. These alloys, like silver and copper, give rise to the qualities of the metal such as colour and hardness. 


Metal:Parts Per ThousandGold Content/Troy oz
9ct gold37511.66 gms
14ct gold58518.14 gms
18ct gold75023.33 gms
22ct gold91628.51 gms
99% pure gold99030.79 gms
99.9% pure gold99931.07 gms
24ct 100% pure gold100031.104 gms

Your questions about platinum jewelry

Why is platinum's purity important to me? Platinum is hypoallergenic, resists tarnish, is one of the strongest precious metals in the world and is extremely durable.
Is platinum the same as white gold? No, it is quite different. During World War II, the U.S. government prohibited platinum's use in all non-military applications, including jewelry. Because of strong consumer preference for platinum's pure white luster, white gold was substituted in platinum's absence. To create white gold, yellow gold is alloyed with nickel and zinc (and small amounts of copper and silver), thereby achieving a white metal look. Platinum has purity, strength, rarity, durability, and a natural rich, white color.
How should I care for and clean my platinum jewelry? Platinum jewelry should be cleaned the same way you clean other fine jewelry. Use a good pre-packaged jewelry cleaner available from your local jeweler or have it professionally cleaned by your jeweler. As with all precious jewelry, store with care, not allowing pieces to touch or scratch each other.
Will platinum scratch? Signs of wear, including scratches, will inevitably appear in all precious metals, even with platinum. Due to platinum's amazing durability and strength, however, there is little or no material loss when it is scratched.
Is platinum fashionable? How will it coordinate with my gold jewelry? Yes, platinum is fashionable! It is very fashionable to wear platinum jewelry with your other fine gold jewelry. Platinum jewelry often contains karat gold design accents, just as karat gold jewelry is sometimes accented with platinum. Platinum's white color beautifully contrasts with yellow gold and adds versatility to your existing jewelry wardrobe.
Is platinum a good value? Yes! Platinum is an excellent value because of its inherent qualities: its purity, its strength, its durability and its rarity. When you purchase platinum jewelry, you are buying jewelry that is almost 100% pure. In the U.S., platinum jewelry is generally 90% or 95% pure platinum, with 5% or 10% alloy of a platinum group metal. By comparison,18 karat gold is 75% pure gold and 14 karat gold is 58% pure gold.
No other precious metal is as pure or bears all the qualities of platinum. Worn over a lifetime and passed on to future generations, platinum is the jewelry metal of choice.

Buying platinum jewelry

Whether you are choosing a ring, pin, bracelet, necklace or bridal jewelry, new and sophisticated designs have created a wide range of platinum jewelry. Many current platinum designs feature 18-karat gold accents. This combination of metals enhances the unique qualities of each.
In the U.S., platinum jewelry usually contains 90% or 95% pure platinum. If a piece of platinum jewelry is marked "iridplat," then it generally contains 90% platinum and 10% iridium, a platinum group metal. If it is marked "plat," then it is at least 95% platinum and another platinum group metal, most likely ruthenium.
Owning a piece of platinum jewelry is a distinct pleasure. You can feel and see the difference; platinum is heavier and denser than other metals and it has an elegant, rich white luster. Buying platinum jewelry is a wise investment. Platinum is one of the rarest, purest and most enduring metals available.
An experienced jeweler can assist you in selecting platinum jewelry that will bring pleasure to you and the recipient for years to come.

Platinum & weddings... the perfect marriage

As platinum's pure white luster, strength and durability are recognized and admired. Bridal couples worldwide are rediscovering platinum as the metal of choice for bridal jewelry.
A diamond and its setting should be forever. Because platinum is superior to other metals in strength and durability, it offers a diamond greater protection. The breathtaking radiance of a diamond fused with the timeless elegance of platinum creates a rare and enduring symbol of lifelong love.

Platinum jewelry

Many jewelry designers and manufacturers feel that platinum is best suited for both diamond and colored stone jewelry because of its strength and durability. Platinum prongs show little wear, and thus offer precious stones greater protection.
Platinum is also one of the most enduring jewelry metals. That's why the world's most famous diamonds, like the Hope, Jonker Diamond Number One, and the Koh-i-Noor, are all secured by platinum settings. Faberg, the famed nineteenth century Russian jeweler, prized platinum, as did Louis Cartier of Paris and many of the great jewelers throughout history.
Choosing a stone is only part of the jewelry-buying process. The setting is just as important, and platinum jewelry offers unusual strength and durability. Fine platinum jewelry endures. Classic design outlives the whims of fashion and retains its character forever.

Why platinum?

Platinum is among the finest, purest and rarest precious metals on earth, and has an understated elegance that appeals to both men and women.
Platinum is strong. Platinum, one of the strongest and most enduring metals in the world, is also one of the heaviest: it weighs 60% more than karat gold. It is ideal for jewelry worn every day because it exhibits little material loss, even after prolonged wear.
Platinum is pure. In the U.S., platinum jewelry generally contains 90% or 95% pure platinum. By comparison, 18 karat gold is 75% pure gold and 14 karat gold is 58% pure gold. Platinum is hypoallergenic and resists tarnish.
Platinum is rare. To produce a single ounce of platinum, a total of 10 tons of ore must be mined. In comparison, only three tons of ore are required to produce one ounce of gold. Rarity lends platinum its cachet.
Platinum is lustrous. Platinum's rich white luster perfectly complements diamonds and other precious gems. Its neutral color enhances a stone's brilliance and depth.
Platinum is fashionable. Platinum jewelry appeals to many people today because of its subtle beauty and elegant understatement. Many platinum jewelry designs are accented with 18 karat gold, creating a sophisticated, versatile and fashionable look.

The world's most precious metal

For its beauty and value, platinum has always been the ultimate expression of celebrations of all kinds: from weddings and anniversaries, to birthdays, holidays and other special occasions.
One of the rarest precious metals on earth, platinum is found in only a few locations in the world.
Platinum has a rich and noble history. It was first used by the ancient Egyptians about three thousand years ago. Eight hundred years later, the South American Incas worked with platinum. The first platinum jewelry in Europe appeared around the year 1780, at the court of Louis XVI of France.
It may surprise you that, although platinum has been around for centuries, it has only been used to fashion jewelry for less than two centuries. It is both an ancient and a young metal.

Helpful Jewelry Information About Diamonds

BaguettesSmall rectangular cut diamond used primarily for trim or accent.
BlemishA term used to describe an imperfection on the surface of a finished diamond, such as a scratch or cavity.
Blue DiamondA diamond with a distinct blue body color, usually a light blue.
Blue WhiteA term used to describe a colorless diamond. The FTC ruled that the stone must have a bluish tint. Flagrant misuse has made the term meaningless.
Body ColorThe color of a diamond as seen in diffused light against a neutral background, free from surrounding reflections.
BrillianceThe intensity of the white light reflected from the surface and the internal surfaces of the facets on a diamond in the "Face Up" position.
Brilliant CutDiamonds fashioned in the round shape with 58 facets. It is the most efficient cut for diamonds cut from octahedral rough.
Canary DiamondTrade name for a yellow diamond with very intense yellow/green or yellow/orange color.
CapeTrade name for diamonds showing distinct yellow tint as seen "Face Up".
Carat WeightUnit of weight for diamonds and other precious stones. A Metric Carat = .200grams = 100 points.
Carbon SpotsBlack appearing spots in diamonds when seen at certain angles. Wrong term for dark inclusions.
CavityA hole or indentation on the surface of a diamond.
CertificateA written report stating all quality factors of a diamond. Price is not stated.
Champagne DiamondA trade term describing a light yellow diamond with green or brown overtone but lacks the intensity to be a Fancy Color Diamond.
Chip#1. A small irregular piece of diamond.
#2. A small break on the surface of a diamond usually extending into the crown or pavilion if located on the girdle. It can also extend in any direction from a facet edge.
CleanFrequently misused term to describe a diamond with slight imperfections. Can also be used to describe a diamond with internal imperfections. Use is prohibited by the FTC unless the stone qualifies as "perfect" as described by the Commission.
CleavageUsually describes an internal crack or break in a diamond along a cleavage plane.
ColorlessA diamond with absolutely NO body color. Stone must be completely transparent.
Commercially PerfectA term used to describe the clarity of a diamond and implies that the stone is nearly perfect. (See FTC's definition)
Commercial WhiteA misleading term used to imply that a stone is nearly white, but is actually off color. see Colorless
CrackA cleavage fracture or fissure with an irregular path inside the stone, usually breaks the surface of the stone.
CrownThe portion of the diamond above the girdle.
Cubic ZirconiaA man-made simulated diamond that is frequently mistaken for a diamond. It does not occur in gem as quality natural stone.
CuletSmall facet polished at the buttom of the diamond, parallel to the table. Usually seen on Old Mine or Old European Cut diamonds. Helped to prevent damage to the older cut stones. If it is too large, it appears as a "hole" in the stone.
DispersionThe breaking up of white light into all the colors of the rainbow.
Emerald CutRefers to a rectangular shaped diamond with long parallel facets on the crown and the pavilion. The overall shape is eight sided.
Eye CleanA term used to describe a diamond that has no flaws visible to the unaided eye of a diamond expert, usually misused. see FTC description of "FLAWLESS"
FacetA flat angular surface polished on the surface of a diamond.
Face UpA gemstone as seen with the viewer looking directly at the top of the stone.
FeatherAn internal cleavage with the appearance of a feather.
Filled DiamondA diamond that had a transparent filler forced into cracks, cleavages or crevices under heat and pressure in order to improve the appearance of the stone.
FireFlashes of the rainbow colors from a diamond caused by dispersion.
Fish EyeAn exceedingly shallow diamond with a noticeable lack of brilliancy. The girdle is usually reflected under the table edge.
FlawA term used to describe any external or internal imperfection in a diamond.
FlawlessA term used to describe a diamond that is totally void in external or internal flaws or blemishes of any kind, as seen by a trained eye with a 10X magnifier, under ideal lighting conditions. FTC rules permit the use of the word "FLAWLESS" without any reference to color or cut.
FluorescenceBlue, yellow or white glow as seen on a diamond when viewed in ultra-violet light  or strong sunlight.
Fracturesee "Crack"
Full CutA term used to describe diamonds with 58 facets.
Gem ColorA term usually used to imply that a diamond is colorless, when in fact,
the stone is average to good color.
GemologistA person who has completed studies in DIAMONDS, COLORED STONES and GEM IDENTIFICATION. He or she should have sufficient experience in the jewelry business to properly apply these studies to appraisals.
GirdleThe edge of a diamond or other precious stone.
HeadThe portion of the mounting that actually holds the diamond.
Heart ShapeA diamond that is fashioned in the shape of a heart.
InclusionA visible foreign substance or crystal inside a diamond. see "Flaw"
Included CrystalAn enclosed crystal of mineral or another diamond inside a diamond.
Industrial DiamondA diamond used in drilling or cutting tools. Usually very heavily flawed and thus not suitable for the gem trade.
Internally FlawlessA term that describes diamonds that are completely free of all inclusions but may have very minor surface blemishes, which could be removed by repolishing.
Laser DrilledDrilling diamonds with laser beams in order to enhance the appearance of a diamond by providing a means to allow a bleaching substance to turn a dark flaw to white.
LoupeA small magnifying glass, either hand held or placed in the eye socket. A 10X loupe should be used to examine diamonds.
Loupe CleanUsually a misused term to describe a diamond as being free of flaws with magnification.  SEE "PERFECT" OR "FLAWLESS"
MakeRefers to the proportions and finish of a polished diamond.
Marquise CutA boat shaped diamond that is pointed at both ends.
Master DiamondsDiamonds certified for body color. They are used to determine the color of other diamonds by comparing the unknown with the known color of the Master Diamond.
MoissaniteA man made diamond substitute frequently mistaken for diamond. It does not occur as a natural stone.
Mounting / SettingA term that describes an article of jewelry that holds gemstones.
NaturalA portion of the original surface of a rough diamond left on a cut and polished diamond, usually found on the girdle. It can extend into the crown or pavilion.
NickSmall chip or indentation on the surface of a diamond. Usually found on the girdle.
OctahedronMost common form of rough diamonds. Try to picture a small pyramid one on top of another, base to base for a general idea of this crystal structure. It is the best shape of rough for cutting brilliant cut diamonds.
Old European CutA diamond with a round girdle outline. It will usually have a high crown, a small table, a deep pavilion and a large culet.
Old Mine CutA diamond with a squarish girdle outline. It will usually have a high crown, a small table, a deep pavilion and a large culet..
Oval CutElliptical shaped diamond, both ends are rounded. It is a variation of the brilliant cut.
PavilionThe portion of the diamond below the girdle.
Pear ShapeA variation of the brilliant cut with one pointed end and one rounded end.
PerfectFTC rules state that a diamond must be free from any and all imperfections when examined by a trained expert with a 10X magnifier in ideal lighting conditions. In addition, the stone must be absolutely colorless and conform to ideal proportions. Such stones are extremely rare.
Perfect CutA term used to describe a stone that has been cut to ideal proportions. Such stones are relatively rare. The term is often confused with Perfect.
Pin PointA small rounded inclusion but not discernable as an included crystal at 10X magnification.
Polish#1. The smoothness of a facet surface.
#2. The act of applying facets to a diamond.
Polished GirdleUsually a girdle edge that has been finished to a high polish or a series of small facets all around the edge of the stone. Most girdles have a gray waxy appearance.
Princess CutA nearly square or rectangular stone with brilliant faceting above and below the girdle.
ProportionsDescribes the cutting quality relative to the Table Percentage, Depth Percentage, Girdle Percentage, Crown and Pavilion angles and symmetry.
Radiant CutSimilar to the Princess Cut with additional brilliant faceting on the four corners, thus giving the stone an eight-sided outline.
ReflectionThe rebounding of light rays from the facet surfaces on a diamond.
RefractionThe bending of light rays when they enter or leave a diamond.
ScintillationThat twinkling of reflected light  when a diamond is moved, or the viewer moves or the light source moves.
ShankPortion of a ring that encircles a finger. It holds the head, which in turn, holds the diamond.
Simulated DiamondAny material made and cut to look like a diamond. These stones may be natural or man-made but will not have any of the properties of a diamond.
Single CutA small round diamond, usually under 0.05 ct. with 17 facets.
SolitaireA ring set with a single diamond.
SpreadDescribes a diamond that has been cut with a thin crown and a large table in order to retain extra weight.  see Fish Eye
SymmetryThe exactness in shaping a diamond and the placing of the facets on the stone.
Synthetic DiamondA man-made diamond with all the physical and chemical properties of the natural diamond.
TableThe large octangular facet on top of the crown on a round diamond.
Tapered BaguetteA modified baguette, narrower at one end. Usually used for trim and accent.
Tiffany MountingUsually refers to a solitaire mounting with a four or six prong head to hold the diamond. The shank is usually quite simple and narrow.
Treated DiamondAny diamond that has been lasered, filled, coated or bombarded  in a reactor to change the color or improve the appearance of the stone.
TrillionA triangular shaped stone with slightly curved girdle edges cut with brilliant faceting.
YagA man-made material used in lasers that duplicates the atomic structure of garnet. Its technical name is YTTRIUM ALUMINUM GARNET. Colorless YAG is used as a simulant for diamond. It was replaced with Cubic Zirconia.
ZirconiaA man-made simulated diamond that is frequently mistaken for diamond. It does not occur as a natural stone in gem quality.

Helpful Jewelry Information - Diamonds' Four C's

Color
Diamonds range in color from colorless to yellow. Even though most diamonds appear colorless to the untrained eye, the majority of diamonds contain traces of yellow or brown. The closer the stone is to colorless, the more valuable the diamond.
Clarity
Most diamonds contain very tiny natural birthmarks known as inclusions. However, the fewer and smaller the inclusions are, the less likely they will interfere with the passage of light through the diamond, and the more beautiful the diamond will be. Diamond is nature's material that is most capable of producing a maximum amount of brilliance. A diamond that is free of both inclusions and surface blemishes is very rare and therefore more valuable.
Carat Weight
This is the weight of the diamond measured in carats. One carat is divided into 100 'points', so that a diamond of 75 points weighs 0.75 carats. Carat weight is the easiest of the 4 C's to determine. But two diamonds of equal weight can have very unequal value, depending on their cut, color and clarity.
Cut
Diamond cutting techniques have been refined since the fifteenth century when master craftsmen passed down their art form from generation to generation. Today, the finest diamond cutting still occurs in the hands of a skilled craftsman. Cut determines the fire and brilliance of the diamond. If the diamond is cut with just the right proportions and at certain precise angles, the stone's ability to reflect and refract light will be maximized. When a round diamond is cut to ideal proportions, light will bounce freely within the diamond, and reflect back out of the crown without escaping through the opposite side or the bottom of the stone. The skill and experience of the diamond cutter will determine the stone's brilliance and scintillation.

Where to buy gold jewelry

When you buy gold jewelry, whether it's for yourself or a gift for a loved one, you are investing in timeless beauty.
For such an important purchase, you want to be sure to make the selection that best suits your needs. Your jeweler can answer any questions you may have, and offer you the widest selection of gold jewelry. With his experience, he can help you find that piece of gold jewelry that can be cherished for a lifetime and even become a family heirloom.

Rely on your a reputable jeweler. He or she is an expert.

How do you know it's real gold?

All that glitters isn't gold! When buying gold jewelry, always look for a karat mark, such as 18K, 14K, 10K, etc. plus the manufacturer's trademark. Stamped somewhere on each piece, this mark of quality indicates you are buying real gold.
The karat mark refers to the purity of gold. Gold in its purest state, 24 karat, is generally considered too soft for practical use in jewelry.

It must be alloyed with other special metals to increase its durability and workability.

Twenty-four karat is 100% pure gold, or 24 parts gold; 18K is 18 parts gold and 6 parts other metal; 14K is 14 parts gold and 10 parts other metal; and, 10K is 10 parts gold and 14 parts other metal.

Nothing less than 10K can legally be marked or sold as gold jewelry in the United States. Alloys of less than 10 karat gold cannot be stamped with the karat mark and are not considered real gold. For example, some jewelry is processed with a layer of gold which has been mechanically bonded to a base metal. This jewelry cannot have a karat mark unless it is qualified. In other words it must be marked "gold filled" preceded by the karat fineness; e.g. "14K gold filled."

Summing up, with gold an ever more precious and fashionable metal, the karat mark on a piece of jewelry is becoming increasingly significant. Only karat gold jewelry is real gold, offering the lasting characteristics of this precious metal.

The uniqueness of gold

Of all the world's precious metals, only gold combines the four basic characteristics that make it a universally and eternally treasured possession:
Lustrous Beauty - The naturally intense color and distinctive luster of gold combined to give this precious metal its unique and lasting beauty. Gold's natural beauty is further enhanced by the soft and exquisite shades of color achieved by combining it with small amounts of other special metals.

Yellow, pink, green and white golds - each exquisite in its own right. There is always fashion acceptance of all colors and color combinations of gold. One of today's trends features combining colors of gold - yellow, white and pink - in jewelry.

Rarity - Although gold is everywhere around us - in the earth's crust, in our seas, rivers and plants - the difficulty and expense of obtaining gold from these diverse sources makes recovery of any great amounts unlikely.

First of all, any new gold mine represents a capital investment of hundreds of millions of dollars! Then, where gold is found to exist, several tons of ore may be required in order to extract just one ounce of the precious metal.

This rarity alone is enough to bestow a certain symbolism of status to gold. Now, combined with its other inherent characteristics, this lustrous and beautiful metal becomes an even more desirable possession.

Durability - Gold lasts, and lasts. Since it does not rust, tarnish or corrode, gold virtually lasts forever. An example of this incredible durability is witnessed in the gold coins found in sunken galleons centuries-old - they're as bright and shiny as the day they were cast! Another familiar example has overwhelmed the millions of people who have seen the Treasures of King Tut. When the boy King Tutankhamum died in 1350 B.C., he was buried with vast quantities of gold artifacts and jewelry. Today, more than 3,000 years later, viewers marvel at the breathtaking golden array, as gleaming and lustrous today as on the day it was buried with the young king.

Today, when you buy gold jewelry, you are buying enduring beauty. Reflecting the properties of the precious metal itself, a gift of gold has always been the symbol of lasting love and devotion.

Ease of Workability - Gold has the best working qualities of any metal, thereby making it the ideal precious metal for fine jewelry whose designs are meant to reflect and appeal to so many different personalities.

To give you an idea of its workability, gold is so soft and malleable, one ounce can be stretched into a wire an incredible 50 miles long or hammered into a sheet so thin, it covers 100 square feet!

It is gold's workability that enables it to be alloyed with the other special precious metals to produce special effects or to achieve variations of color.

Gold can be re-melted and used again and again. And, gold works for everyone. From the most intricate baby bracelet to the heaviest man's chain, gold's workability gives it the ability to achieve the look and the feeling of importance.

The allure of gold

The allure of gold, and the desire to own it, dates back as far as the history of mankind itself.
The place of gold has been extraordinary in every society. In earliest times, it had magical importance. All of the great empires of the ancient world used golden objects, mainly in their religious rituals.

Over centuries of growing sophistication and technology, gold has taken on many additional roles. Not only is it still prized for jewelry, it now has many new applications in contemporary life.

Gold soared into space with the astronauts, its reflective ability is used on the heat shields that are critical to life. This same ability to reflect the sun increases the aesthetic and practical beauty of today's glass skyscrapers; gold in tinted windows makes the difference between obstructive glare and glamorous gleam.

In medicine and dentistry, in industry and in a hundred applications from TV sets to telephones, computers to calculators, this eternal metal is an important component.

But, above all, gold has enjoyed its finest glitter throughout the ages in its ultimate form - jewelry. In fact, the wearing of gold on the body may actually be man's oldest surviving tradition.

Every day, virtually each one of us continues the centuries-old ritual of gold adornment. Men, women and children of all cultures are caught up in gold's allure through a ring, chain, earrings, watch or bracelet.
Wednesday, July 20, 2011

Gold And Green Shoots David Coffin

gold silver precious metals nickel copper zinc china mining companies commodities
HRAadvisory.com's David Coffin says gold prices are headed up. With HoweStreet.com's Victor Adair.